At the end of the Second World War, women are looking for feminity, elegance and chic. Christian Dior responds to this demand in 1947 with the “New look” (name given by Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow). The “New look” is characterised by soft shoulders, wasp-waisted (bonet corset) and hip-padded designs. The 40’s short skirt is replaced by a large full mid calf skirt. The “New look” is inspired of the mid-nineteenth century. Paris becomes the center of fashion.
The Bar suit (molded curves, a cinched waist, elevated bust and padded hips) and the Corolla dress (a tight bust and an oversize petticoat) are iconic outifts of the “New look”. In 1954, Dior presents the “H-line” (a silhouette relatively straight from the shoulders to the hips).
Dior designs in 1953
Corolla dress by Dior
H line dress
Bar suit by Dior
The swing dress ( wasp waist with full skirt)
, the shirtwaist dress (a fitted button-down top ending at the waist and a full skirt),
the wrap dress and
the bell shape dress are popular during the Fifties. Women dress to please their husband like happy housewives.
Swing dress
Shirt dresses
Wrap dresses
Bell shape dresses
Printed dresses (flowers, plaid, polka dots…) are typical of the 1950s.
Floral dress
Exotic pattern
Striped dress worn by Nancy Berg
Polka dots pattern
Vichy pattern
Velvet, tulle, silk and satin are popular fabrics in the 1950s.
Cotton, wool and polyester are also used.
Silk dress by Nina Ricci
Satin evening dress by Adele Simpson, 1953
Tulle dress
Velvet dress by Balenciaga
Cotton dress by Ruth Chagnon
The slim fitting pencil skirt becomes popular during the Fifties.
A pencil skirt worn by Marilyn Monroe
Pencil skirt
Some designers like
Coco Chanel go against “the New look” and propose
the slim suit (a boxy jacket with no collar and a straight skirt).
Chanel slim suit
Jean Patou slim suit 1957
Slim suit 1953
The claudine collar is popular in the 50’s.
Col claudine
Col claudine
The Fifties swim suits :
Rita Hayworth
Fifties swimwear
Marilyn Monroe wearing a bikini
Movie stars (especially Hollywood stars)
are raised to level of fashion icons.
Grace Kelly
Lauren Bacall
Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina
Elizabeth Taylor
Brigitte Bardot
Marilyn Monroe in the movie “Gentlemen prefer blondes
Ava Gardner
Led by America, the Fifties sees the birth of
the Ready-To-Wear. The US War Production Board sponsorises a measurements survey of 100,000 women to standardize sizing for the garment industry. Henceforth, high end fashion is available to the general population and not only to the wealthy.
Fashion houses like Dior diversify their activities : perfume and fashion accessories (jewelry, bags, gloves, scarves, hats, heels…).
Long gloves signed Dior
Gloves
Chanel perfume
Dior necklace
Dior shoes
Fifties hats
At the end of the fifties, the lines are looser :
the sack dress by Givenchy in 1957 and by Balenciaga,
the trapeze dress by Dior in 1958 and
the Empire style dress in 1959.
Sources : http://balises.bpi.fr/arts/les-annees-50–la-mode-en-france-1947-1957 ; http://www.marieclaire.fr/,les-looks-des-annees-50,706684.asp ; http://histoiredelamode.canalblog.com/ ; http://fiftiesweb.com/fashion/fashion-w/ ; http://latelierdecouture.com/histoire-mode/annees-50-new-look/ ; http://www.lefigaro.fr/ ; http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81460 ; http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/ ; http://customrodder.forumactif.org/ ; http://www.thehouseoffoxy.com/1950s/a32 ; http://vintagefashionguild.org ; https://fr.pinterest.com/ ; http://www.puretrend.com/ and http://vintagedancer.com/
missloveschic
French jewelry and scarf designer.
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